First, acne cosmetic formula design principles
① fast-acting, high efficiency
② no antibiotics and hormones and other prohibited ingredients; maximize the use of natural ingredients
③ repair the skin, enhance the body’s immunity, improve acne skin pathology.
Second, acne cosmetic formula design ideas
1、Exfoliate the surface layer, dredge the oil secretion pathway
Exfoliating agent can promote the weakening of the bond between the cells in the aging stratum corneum, comprehensively accelerate cell metabolism, promote the detachment of dead cells, unclogging the hair follicles, eliminating the possibility of acne growth, and improve the face of dull skin color, etc. to achieve the purpose of improving the skin condition.
Examples of ingredients
Plant extracts: licorice, scutellaria baicalensis (corrects abnormal keratinization at the mouth of hair follicles), guava leaf (contains vitamins A and B), green tea leaf (produces IL-la keratinizing factor), etc;
② acids: salicylic acid, fruit acid, azelaic acid and its derivatives, etc.
(iii) vitamin A: retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, etc.
- Add oil control ingredients to inhibit excessive oil secretion
1) Inhibit the development of sebaceous glands (reduce the protein level of MC5-R);
2) Reduce skin squalene content;
3) Reduce the secretion of sebum, mainly through the inhibition of 5-alpha-reductase inhibit the secretion of sebum.
The 5-alpha-reductase enzyme converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which binds to androgen receptors on the sebaceous glands, causing an overproduction of oil that clogs the pores of the skin, allowing the growth of inflammation-causing bacteria, infections, and the formation of acne. Thus, it can be associated that products that down-regulate 5-alpha-reductase synthesis, or inhibit 5-alpha-reductase activity, may be effective in treating acne.)
Examples of ingredients:
① Zinc salts, such as PCA zinc, zinc gluconate, zinc lactate ;
② Siderophore extract, Salvia divinorum, botanical antisensitizers, Matricaria, Elm Hydrangea, Tea Tree;
③ astringents: hydroxyaluminum chloride, calcium chloride, zinc sulfate, ethanol, glycerite, etc;
④ Other: fullerene, vitamin A, etc.
3、Inhibit and kill harmful microorganisms, remove acne-causing parasitic flora.
Rapidly kill propionibacterium acnes, telangiectasia and other skin parasitic flora to prevent bacterial organisms from infiltration and inflammation of acne.
Examples of ingredients:
Totarol, Piosonin, Honeysuckle, Dandelion, Bitter Ginseng, Scutellaria Baicalensis, Umbelliferae Hydrocarbons, Tea Tree Essential Oil, Patchouli, Sandalwood Essential Oil, Rosemary Essential Oil, Spike Flower Essential Oil, Cinnamon Essential Oil, Bitter Ginseng Extract, Yellow Clover Extract, Phellodendron Bark Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract, Sulphur Yellow, Tricuspidium Extract, and other ingredients, which are known to have some inhibitory effects on different microorganisms.
4、Inhibit inflammatory immune response, reduce the chance of acne occurrence
Elevated levels of interleukins (cytokines), especially IL-1α, are the main feature of inflamed skin, and inflammation leads to a variety of reactions such as redness, swelling, heat and pain. However protein kinase C (PKC) activation may promote an inflammatory response. Substantial control of inflammation can be achieved by inhibiting both events
Examples of ingredients:
Bitter ginseng, licorice, Scutellaria baicalensis, mung bean ferment, etc.; polyphenols such as floral acids and EGCG in guava leaves and green tea leaves can resist mast cell degranulation to block histamine release.
5、Reasonable oil-water ratio of the substrate
Reasonable oil-water ratio value of the formula matrix low oily formula design (usually LogDon=0.5~0.9) is more conducive to the release of the active substance and transdermal absorption, to ensure that the active ingredient quickly reach the lesion site. At the same time, the low oil content of the matrix also prevents the high oil content of the cream from clogging pores and further aggravating the already inflamed skin condition.
6, eliminate acne marks, repair damaged tissues, reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scar formation
In the process of inhibiting melanin formation, sulfhydryl groups on the surface of the skin combine with copper ions in tyrosinase to inactivate tyrosinase and prevent the formation of melanin. In addition to this, melanin deposition inhibition can be achieved in the following 3 ways:
1) Inhibiting the formation of black acne marks by blocking α-MSH signaling to prevent overproduction of melanin;
2) Competitively inhibiting the action of tyrosinase;
3) Preventing UV UVA damage to the acne pimple area that can lead to scarring caused by melanin accumulation.
Examples of ingredients
Clove Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract, Oligopeptides, Niacinamide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Rhamnosus Soothing Agent (RHAMNOSOFT, Glycyrrhiza glabra Root Extract, etc.)
7, moisturizing, restoring and enhancing immunity.
The purpose of adding moisturizing skin care ingredients is to control oil while keeping the skin in a normal moisturized state to prevent the skin from becoming dry.
Examples of ingredients
① Hyaluronic acid can increase the water content of the stratum corneum;
②Ceramides, which replenish the skin’s natural moisturizing factors;
(iii) Natural oils and fats to relieve skin sensitivity.
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