Acne cosmetics formulations
I, acne cosmetics formula design principles
①Fast-acting, high efficiency ② no antibiotics and hormones and other prohibited ingredients; maximize the use of natural ingredients ③ Repair the skin, enhance the body’s immunity, and improve acne skin pathology.
II, acne cosmetics formula design ideas
1、Exfoliate the surface layer, dredge the oil secretion pathway
Exfoliating agents can promote the weakening of bonds between cells in the aging stratum corneum, accelerate cell metabolism, promote the detachment of dead cells, unclog hair follicles, eliminate the possibility of acne growth, and improve the dull complexion of the face to achieve the purpose of improving the condition of the skin.
Examples of ingredients: ① Plant extracts: licorice, scutellaria baicalensis (corrects abnormal keratinization at the mouth of the hair follicle), guava leaf (contains vitamins A , B), green tea leaf (produces IL – la keratinizing factor), etc; ② acids: salicylic acid, fruit acid, azelaic acid and its derivatives, etc. (iii) vitamin A: retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, etc.
2, add oil control ingredients, inhibit excessive secretion of sebum
1) Inhibition of sebaceous gland development (reduction of protein levels of MC5-R); 2) Reduction of skin squalene content; 3) reducing sebum secretion, primarily by inhibiting 5-alpha-reductase. The 5-alpha-reductase enzyme converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which binds to androgen receptors on the sebaceous glands, causing an overproduction of oil that clogs the pores of the skin, allowing the growth of inflammation-causing bacteria, infections, and the formation of acne. Thus, it can be associated that down-regulation of 5-alpha-reductase synthesis, or products that inhibit 5-alpha-reductase activity may be effective in treating acne.)
Examples of ingredients: ① Zinc salts such as PCA zinc, zinc gluconate, zinc lactate ; ② Siderophore extract, Salvia divinorum, botanical antisensitizers, Matricaria, Elm Hydrangea, Tea Tree; ③ astringents: hydroxyaluminum chloride, calcium chloride, zinc sulfate, ethanol, glycerite, etc; ④ Other: fullerene, vitamin A class, etc.
3. Inhibits harmful microorganisms and removes acne-causing parasitic flora.
Rapidly kills Propionibacterium septicum, telangiectasia and other skin parasitic flora to prevent inflammation and acne from bacterial protozoa infiltration.
Examples of ingredients: Totarol, Piosonin, Honeysuckle, Dandelion, Bitter ginseng, Scutellaria baicalensis, Umbelliferae hydrocarbons, Tea Tree Essential Oil, Patchouli, Sandalwood Essential Oil, Rosemary Essential Oil, Spike Essential Oil, Cinnamon Essential Oil, Bitter Ginseng Extract, Yellow Cortex Extract, Phellodendron Bark Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract, Sulphur Yellow, Pansy Extract, and many other ingredients, which are known to have a certain inhibition effect on different microorganisms.
4, inhibit inflammatory immune response, reduce the chance of acne occurrence
Elevated levels of interleukins (cytokines), particularly IL-1α, are a key feature of inflamed skin, and inflammation leads to a variety of responses including redness, swelling, heat and pain. However protein kinase C (PKC) activation may promote an inflammatory response. Substantial control of inflammation can be achieved by inhibiting both events
Examples of ingredients: Bitter ginseng, licorice, scutellaria baicalensis, mung bean ferment; polyphenols such as floral acids and EGCG in guava leaves and green tea leaves resist mast cell degranulation to block histamine release.
5. Reasonable oil-water comparison value of the substrate
The reasonable oil-water ratio of the formula base and the low oil content (usually LogDon=0.5~0.9) facilitate the release and transdermal absorption of the active ingredients and ensure that the active ingredients can reach the lesion site quickly. At the same time, the low oil content of the matrix also prevents the high oil content of the cream from clogging the pores and further aggravating the already inflamed skin condition.
6, eliminate acne marks, repair damaged tissues, reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scar formation
In the process of inhibiting melanin formation, sulfhydryl groups on the surface of the skin bind to copper ions in the enzyme tyrosinase to inactivate the enzyme and prevent melanin formation. In addition to this, the purpose of inhibiting melanin deposition can be achieved in the following 3 ways: 1) Inhibiting the formation of black acne marks by blocking α-MSH signaling to prevent overproduction of melanin; 2) Competitively inhibiting the action of tyrosinase; 3) Preventing UV UVA damage to the acne area that can lead to scarring caused by melanin accumulation. Examples of ingredients Clove Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract, Oligopeptide, Niacinamide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Rhamnosus Soothing Agent (RHAMNOSOFT, Glycyrrhiza glabra Root Extract, etc.)
7. Moisturizes, restores and boosts immunity.
The purpose of adding moisturizing skin care ingredients is to control oil while keeping the skin properly moisturized to prevent it from becoming dry.
Examples of ingredients Hyaluronic acid increases the water content of the stratum corneum; ②Ceramides supplement the skin’s natural moisturizing factors; (iii) Natural oils and fats to reduce skin sensitivity.
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