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Fruit Acids, Salicylic Acids, Complex Acids, which is the right acid for you?

Damn acne acne marks, various spots, dull and yellow …… really affects our face value too much! There are a lot of sisters who have spent a lot of energy and used a lot of skin care products can not completely solve these problems ah?

That’s because our skin is divided into: epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous tissue, fascia and muscle. The epidermis is composed of five small layers, from outside to inside are: stratum corneum, stratum pellucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale, etc. These five layers constitute the epidermis. These five layers make up the epidermis, and they are like a wall that separates the outside world from the inside of our body.

That’s why applying skin care products outside the epidermis usually doesn’t even reach the clear layer, with less than 15% absorption. To be safe and still get fast results, try acid brushing.

The most direct effect of acid brushing is to promote the exfoliation of the stratum corneum. Therefore, it is very effective in improving various skin problems caused by overproduction of oil and accumulation of keratin, such as closed mouth, whiteheads, blackheads, chestnut pimples and so on. In addition, while exfoliating the skin, acid brushing also improves the smoothness of the skin and improves oiliness, giving the skin texture a boost. Overall, if you feel that your skin is rough and has a poor texture, or if you suffer from the above mentioned overproduction of oil and exfoliation, you can try acid brushing.

There are three main types of acids commonly used on the market today: fruit acids, salicylic acids and complex acids, do you know what kind of problems they can solve respectively? Suitable for what skin type to use? What are the different effects of different concentrations? Here are the answers for you one by one

Fruit acids are the various organic acids that are extracted from food. The more common ones are citric acid, amygdalic acid, malic acid, lactic acid and gluconic acid. Fruit acids are water-soluble and highly penetrating. They are more suitable for people with normal and dry skin types.

It exfoliates and promotes the elimination of melanin cells, which in turn reduces discoloration and improves roughness and dullness; it also promotes the growth of collagen and intercellular matrix.

Fruit acid resurfacing also has certain advantages in the treatment of closed mouth acne, through fruit acid treatment can correct the follicle conduit mouth keratinization, accelerate cell metabolism, stimulate dermal collagen fiber proliferation. Fruit acid can also control oil, lighten acne marks, improve skin roughness, large pores and other problems.

The effectiveness of fruit acids is also related to the concentration:

Below 8%: It can accelerate the shedding of cellular horny layer; reduce the condition of acne and pimples; increase the water content of the skin and eliminate fine wrinkles.

Around 20%: In addition to the above effects, it also promotes melanin discharge and reduces pigmentation; improves acne marks and sun spots.

Greater than 20%: This is the concentration used for fruit acid skin resurfacing, which smooths the skin, reduces wrinkles and removes yellowing.

For superficial acne, basically 20-35% can provide some improvement, while some deeper closed acne needs to use about 50% fruit acid. 50% fruit acid can also improve some pigmentation problems, such as epidermal melasma is sometimes considered to use 50% fruit acid.

70% fruit acids are effective in improving fine lines, aged pores (due to decreased skin elasticity and collagen destruction), hyperpigmentation and other superficial photoaging, as well as for some superficial acne pits after multiple treatments.

Salicylic acid is an active substance that is fat-soluble (dissolved in skin oils). In addition to changing the pH of the skin, it loosens corns (blackheads), prevents acne (pimples), and fights skin inflammation for oily and acne-prone skin. Generally, salicylic acid is good at around 2% and below PH4.

Specific effects of salicylic acid

Unclogs pores: Its fat-soluble ingredients, which penetrate deep into pores and blend into sebum, loosen corns, blackheads and whiteheads, allowing skin clogs to float out of pores.

Anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory: Salicylic acid is the metabolite of aspirin, and its anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects can be realized by the hydrolysis product salicylic acid. At the same time, salicylic acid can make the anaerobic bacteria in the skin can not continue to reproduce after coming into contact with oxygen or carbon dioxide, and play the role of antibacterial.

Improvement of acne: On the basis of antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, salicylic acid can achieve the improvement of acne. It is generally suitable for improving the initial stage of acne.

Exfoliation: It can dissolve the constitutive substances between the keratin, remove the excess old keratin on the surface of the skin, at the same time, accelerate the metabolism of the skin, promote the rapid renewal of skin cells, so that the dull skin to restore smooth and delicate.

Whitening and light spots: Salicylic acid has an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin synthesis, together with the exfoliating effect of salicylic acid, the two-pronged approach can play a role in whitening and light spots.

Composite acid is an acid agent in which two or more different types of single acids with different mechanisms are compounded together. It can synthesize two acids with different mechanisms of action to promote penetration and improve efficacy. Complex acids combine the benefits of both acids and avoid the risks of each, making them suitable for all skin types.

One of the more classic complex acids available is Jessner’s Liquid, which is a self-neutralizing complex acid that is an ethanol solution of 14% lactic acid + 14% salicylic acid + 14% resorcinol.

Because of its 1+1>2 effect so it can address a wider range of skin problems that can be specifically addressed:

Skin pigmentation: dull & uneven skin tone, acne marks, discoloration at joints, etc.; Skin photoaging: rough skin, enlarged pores, fine lines and wrinkles;

Oily acne skin: Excessive keratin, oil secretion, blackheads and whiteheads, pimples and acne; specific diseases: chicken skin, ichthyosis, etc.

Its strength lies in skin whitening, especially in brightening and improving the darkness of the skin, as well as in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. 52% of the total concentration of Jessner’s liquid is in the basal layer of the epidermis, which is the birthplace of melanocytes and melanin, and hyperpigmentation tends to be more prevalent at this level, so the complex acid can effectively promote the metabolism of the epidermis to reduce pigmentation. Effectively promote the metabolism of the epidermis, so that the pigmentation is reduced.

Things to keep in mind when brushing acid

You should take care to moisturize your skin and protect it from the sun both before and after acid brushing.

After acid brushing try to moisturize your skin with skin care products that have simple ingredients, are less irritating, and repair the skin barrier;

Strict sun protection, try to avoid going out and direct sunlight, unavoidable need to stay outdoors for a long time, to physical shielding sun protection (umbrellas, masks, hats, sunglasses, etc.).

Finally, we are especially reminded that firstly, acid brushing should be carried out under the guidance of a doctor; and secondly, we should choose regular medical institutions to carry out medical cosmetic projects.

*Disclaimer: The content contained in this article comes from the Internet, WeChat public numbers and other public channels, and we maintain a neutral attitude toward the views expressed in the article. This article is for reference and exchange only. The copyright of the reproduced manuscript belongs to the original author and the institution, and if there is any infringementPlease contact Jetson Chemical for deletion

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