Characteristics of several amino acid main surface active cleansing creams
1 Sodium lauroyl glutamate
-Added more, powder-based, easy to caking, self-pearling, cream is hard, foam amount is low, mild and refreshing after washing, difficult to do stable.
2 Sodium/potassium cocoyl glycinate
-Liquid-based, requires larger additions, weak acidity, thickening, etc. to meet the creaming conditions, requires more auxiliary ingredients, easy to stabilize, lower cost, and simple production process.
3 Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
-Requires a higher addition, usually mixed with succinic acid, requires a high salt environment to meet the creaming conditions, refreshing after washing, and can form a clear solution after dilution.
4 Amino acid fatty acid type
-Powder-based, liquid-based, generally cocoyl glycine based, using NaOH and KOH as neutralizing bases, with a neutralization degree of about 85%, rich foam and good freshness.
A few common amino acid cleansing cream practices
☆ Sodium lauroyl glutamate powder caking method/lauroyl glutamate neutralization caking method
☆Cocoyl glycine sodium weakly acidic caking method/Cocoyl glycine neutralization reaction caking method
☆Cocoyl glycine potassium/sodium weak alkaline thickening method
☆ Sodium taurate and succinic acid high concentration caking method (clear water type)
01 Sodium lauroyl glutamate type cleansing cream
-Cleansing creams based on sodium lauroyl glutamate powder usually require the addition of a larger content, about 25% of the powder dosage, supplemented by other ingredients such as emulsifiers, auxiliary foaming table activators, filling stabilizers, alcohols and other raw materials.
-Sodium lauroyl glutamate type cleansing cream generally paste temperature control between 42-45 ℃ can be maintained more stable, paste point lower high temperature stability is poor, you can add an appropriate amount of inorganic salts to control the paste temperature.
Sodium lauroyl glutamate has its own pearlescence, generally there is no need to add extra pearlescent ingredients, the natural formation of pearlescent effect after creaming is one of the important signs of better stability of sodium lauroyl glutamate based cleanser.
-Sodium lauroyl glutamate system needs to add some auxiliary components to maintain stability, such as the right amount of emulsifier, fillers, alcohols; the choice of emulsifier is large, sodium lauroyl glutamate is easier to emulsify, so the amount of emulsifier added is small, the right amount of emulsifier is one of the important factors to keep the paste stable; the right amount of polyol can disperse or dissolve the unneutralized part of the lauroyl glutamate, so that the paste remains stable; adding fillers can reduce the amount of water activity, increase the solid content, so that the paste structure is more stable, fillers generally use betaine, PCA Na and so on.
-Monosodium lauroyl glutamate-based cleansing creams are difficult to make stable, and about 80% of the products on the market are unstable and need to be considered for their riskiness.
02 Lauryl glutamate neutralizing reaction caking cleansing cream
-Lauroyl glutamate-based, neutralizing reaction cleansing cream, fatty acid addition of about 22-25%, generally use KOH, NaOH neutralization, neutralization degree of about 85%, the appropriate degree of neutralization can be residual fatty acids can play a self-thickening effect, so that the cream is more stable and easy to paste, better pearlescent effect.
It is more similar to sodium lauroyl glutamate powder as the main body, the difference lies in the process of neutralization reaction, grasp the degree of neutralization and the amount of fatty acids used is the key factor of the stability of the whole formula.
-The paste reacted with NaOH is hard and the paste is easier to stabilize, while the paste reacted with KOH is soft and the paste is more difficult to stabilize.
-The risk of neutralizing reaction type cleansing cream with lauryl glutamate as the main body is higher than that with sodium lauryl glutamate, the cost is slightly lower, the formulation design is difficult, the production process is difficult, and there are more unstable factors, so the recommended adoption factor is lower.
03 Sodium cocoyl glycinate type cleansing cream
-Amino acid cleansing cream based on sodium cocoyl glycinate, generally with liquid added as the main ingredient and powder as a supplement, with easier formulation design, easier cost control, higher popularity, easier production and lower risk factor, is a relatively ideal raw material for making amino acid cleansing cream.
-Liquid-based cleansing creams, with 30% solid content of high-salt type ingredients as the mainstream on the market, are relatively reasonably priced and easy to procure.
30% liquid-based cleansing cream, generally need to add a larger amount, depending on the type of formulation, the amount added between about 25-60%, the amount of larger, more easily to meet the conditions of the cream.
-Sodium cocoyl glycinate creaming cleanser, the general PH value is adjusted to between 5.8-6.3 is more appropriate, too low foaming effect is poor, too high creaming effect and thickening difficulty.
-Need to add some auxiliary ingredients, such as amphoteric table activity, non-ionic table activity, thickeners and other auxiliary thickening, foam, water bleaching, rapid foaming and other effects.
04 Cocoyl glycine neutralizing reaction cream cleanser
-Amino acid cleansing cream based on cocoyl glycine, which is generally made by using powder as the main body and liquid as a supplement and neutralized by strong alkali, with the advantages of high total solid content, easy creaming, good foaming effect and rich foam.
-Cocoyl glycine fatty acid powder-based cleansing creams, supplemented with some of the corresponding amino acid salt liquids are more suitable to dissolve and react some of the fatty acids quickly before the reaction.
Generally need to add a larger amount, depending on the type of formulation, the amount of addition between about 10-15%, the amount of larger, more easily to meet the paste conditions.
-Similar to sodium cocoyl glycinate creaming cleanser, the general PH value is controlled between 5.8-6.3 is more appropriate, too low foaming effect is poor, too high creaming effect and thickening difficulty.
-Need to add some auxiliary ingredients, such as amphoteric table activity, non-ionic table activity, thickeners and other auxiliary thickening, foam, water bleaching, rapid foaming and other effects.
-Compared with the cleanser using only liquid sodium cocoyl glycinate system, the advantages are that the solid content can be made larger, the cream is thicker, the foam is richer, and the stability is better, the disadvantages are that the process is complicated, the use of KOH neutralization may produce the phenomenon of yellowing.
05 Sodium/potassium cocoyl glycinate and amino acid fatty acid mixed paste type
-Sodium/potassium cocoyl glycinate as main, amino acid fatty acid as supplementary non-neutralizing amino acid cleanser, mainly amino acid salt as main table foaming, amino acid fatty acid as supplementary to provide weak acidic condition and thickening, generally add liquid as main, fatty acid with lauryl glutamic acid or cocoyl glycine is more suitable, formula is easier to design, cost is easier to control, popularity is higher, production is easier, risk factor is lower, it is relatively ideal raw material for making amino acid cleanser.
-Liquid-based cleansing creams, with 30% solid content of high-salt type ingredients as the mainstream on the market, are relatively reasonably priced and easy to procure.
-Cleaning creams that are mainly 30% liquid, generally need to add a larger amount, depending on the type of formulation, the amount added is between about 25-60%, the larger amount, it is easier to meet the creaming conditions.
-Sodium cocoyl glycinate creaming cleanser, the general PH value control between 5.8-6.3 is more appropriate, too low foaming effect is poor, too high creaming effect and thickening difficulty.
-Need to add some auxiliary ingredients, such as amphoteric table activity, non-ionic table activity, thickeners and other auxiliary thickening, foam, water bleaching, rapid foaming and other effects.
06 Sodium/potassium cocoyl glycinate weak alkaline non-caking thickening cleansing cream
-Alkaline amino acid cleansing cream based on sodium/potassium cocoyl glycinate, generally liquid-based, with a small amount of addition, generally 20-35% of the amount added to meet the foaming requirements, fast foaming, rich foam, refreshing and non-tight after washing.
-Alkaline cleansing cream based on cocoyl glycine lipid liquid, its optimal pH range is 7.5-8, in this pH range, sodium/potassium cocoyl glycine is non-caking, and it is the best lathering range value, lower dosage can meet the daily use needs, it is the ideal way to make low-cost amino acid cleanser.
– The key point of weak alkaline non-caking cream cleanser is thickening, generally using a mixture of long and short rheological thickeners, which can be more selective, thicken more easily and make the cream with a certain degree of fluidity, suitable for pressure pump type package.
07 Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate caked cream cleanser
-The advantage is that it is easy to paste, easy to produce brilliant pearlescent effect, refreshing after washing, and can be diluted into a transparent solution, commonly known as “clear water facial cleanser”, the disadvantage is that the amount of surface activity is large but the amount of foam is small, slow foaming.
Water-based cleansers require the addition of inorganic salts to regulate the creaming temperature to achieve better creaming effect and stability.
How to quickly identify sample amino acid cleansing creams
☆ Observe the appearance state, color, cream fineness, pearlescent effect, wiping effect
☆ Test the PH value to determine if it is a caking type
☆Take a small amount of cream and observe the state after dilution with cold water; test the effect after refrigeration and heat resistance
☆ Hand and face test foam effect and wash feeling
The cream is thicker, rougher, harder, with fine fish scale pearlescent effect, smear open with a sense of particles, PH value is weak acid, cold water dilution will produce flowing pearlescent effect, slow foaming, foam amount is small, foam is large, easy to rinse water, wash feeling mild, refreshing not tight collapse.
Cream soft and delicate, there is a certain water light effect, generally add the right amount of thickener to thicken, refrigerated test may appear jelly phenomenon, heat-resistant test appears to return to thin phenomenon, cold water dilution shows cloudy, diluted liquid pearlescent effect is weak, PH value is weakly acidic, foam, wash sense varies depending on the formula, the overall foam to medium to large foam, foam is richer; long time high temperature may produce yellowing, sodium salt yellowing is relatively mild, potassium salt yellowing is more obvious.
The cream shows a certain flow state, the consistency varies depending on the formula, PH value is weakly alkaline, the general PH value between 7.5-8, higher PH value or more than 9 may have the possibility of soap base, sodium/potassium cocoyl glycinate solution can not reach more than 9 PH value, cold water dilution, depending on the formula turbidity varies, more weak acidic formula turbidity is low, fast foaming, rich foam, wash feeling fresh, easy to rinse water It is easy to rinse.
The cream is delicate and soft, the appearance of a more intense mirror-like pearlescent, pearlescent strong effect with the amount of succinic acid, the greater the amount of pearlescent effect is more intense, PH value is weak acid, take a small amount of diluted in water to present a transparent solution, foam is less, wash feeling fresh, easy to rinse water.
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