Matrix raw materials are the main raw materials constituting the cosmetic dosage form, accounting for a relatively large proportion of the cosmetic formulations, generally divided into oily raw materials, powder raw materials, colloidal raw materials, surfactants, solvents and so on.
Oil raw materials is the formation of a variety of creams, emulsions cosmetics base materials, play a role in moisturizing, softening and protecting the skin. Commonly used are horse fat, olive oil and other natural sources of animal and plant oils and fats, mineral oil, mineral oil, wax and other natural mineral oils and waxes, as well as silicone oil, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and other synthetic or semi-synthetic oily raw materials.
Powder raw materials is the base material of powder cosmetics, powder, powder, foundation, eye shadow and other products in the use of a high amount, play a filler, dispersion, absorption, covering and other functions, commonly used talc, kaolin, mica, stearate and so on.
Gel raw materials are commonly used in gel-type cosmetic matrix raw materials, the main ingredient is water-soluble polymer compounds, because of its film-forming, gelling, water retention and other functions, in all kinds of cosmetics is becoming more and more widely used.
Surfactant is the matrix raw material for the preparation of skin cleansing cosmetics; it is used as an important auxiliary raw material in many kinds of cosmetics because it has the functions of emulsification, solubilization, dispersion, decontamination, antistatic and so on.
Solvent in cosmetics mainly play a role in dissolving other auxiliary or functional raw materials, commonly used water, ethanol and other water-phase raw materials. Nail polish, nail wash and other oil-soluble cosmetics will also be used in organic solvents such as ethyl acetate, acetone and other raw materials as a substrate.
Auxiliary raw materials can give cosmetics a specific aroma, color tone and ensure product quality and safety. Although the amount of these raw materials added in cosmetics is relatively small, but its role should not be ignored, mainly including aromatics, coloring agents, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters, chelating agents and so on.
Functional raw materials is to give cosmetics specific efficacy or to strengthen the physiological effects of cosmetics on the skin of a class of raw materials, such as sunscreen agents, spot whitening agents, anti-hair loss agents, perms, deodorants and so on.
A variety of factors affecting the efficacy of cosmetics
The efficacy of cosmetics and the use of functional ingredients are inevitably linked. For example, claiming to have the function of sunscreen cosmetics will certainly use sunscreen agent, spot whitening products will add spot whitening and other efficacy of ingredients, perm products have specific perm efficacy of ingredients and so on.
So, added functional ingredients of cosmetics will have the corresponding effect? The answer is not certain. Whether cosmetics can achieve the claimed effect depends on a variety of factors:
First, the skin itself. Skin absorption is the basis for the use of cosmetics, if the skin absorption effect is not good, and then the good raw materials can not play the role of due effect. The use of crowd age, gender, use of parts, skin condition may affect the skin’s absorption of cosmetics.
Secondly, the amount of efficacy ingredients added. If the amount added is too small, the raw material does not reach the starting amount, the product obviously can not play the corresponding effect. But the amount added is not the more the better, too much of the efficacy of the ingredients added may not only increase the burden on the skin, affecting the absorption of the effect, but also may increase the risk of safety, and increase product costs.
Third, the nature of the efficacy of the ingredients. Generally speaking, the fat-soluble efficacy of the ingredient is better absorbed, the smaller the molecular weight, the easier it is absorbed, but it is not absolute. In addition, the transdermal absorption effect of raw materials is also related to its structure, shape, solubility and other factors, not solely dependent on molecular weight.
Fourth, the product’s compounding situation. Through the efficacy of the ingredients and other auxiliary raw materials or a variety of efficacy components of a reasonable combination, the product can be synergistic function, if the combination is unreasonable, even if the same efficacy of the same ingredients, the same amount of addition, the effect of different products will be very different.
Fifth, the external environmental factors. Temperature, relative humidity will also affect the absorption of efficacy ingredients. The higher the temperature, the better the absorption of most of the efficacy of the skin ingredients. When the relative humidity increases, due to the water in the stratum corneum and the external moisture difference is reduced, the skin’s absorption of water will be affected, but also reduces the absorption of water-soluble efficacy of ingredients.
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